Gran Turismo 5 - Prologue.
I got this game for the PS3 from my brother a while back and at first it wasn't quite what I expected it.. Unlike the earlier generations (GT2) where you could overly power a car up (Pikes Peak - 1000HP car on a 1000lb frame.. hmmm) this version is based on real cars and the only tuning one can do is basic HP addition (no buying parts like massive Stage 4 turbos), downforce and traditional racetuning once you're in S class. Once I got into it the game is quite fun and challenging. I basically had 3 cars that got me though the whole game. the Subaru WRX for class C/B, the Viper/tuned for B/A/S and then the S2000 for the really hard S class races (S10 for instance).
I did fairly well and got first place in almost all races except a few, namely S10 which took me quite a few hours and painful frustration to get 3rd. How did I do it? well I used my Logitech G25 racing wheel, the S2000 and basically gave as much traction as possible and tried to keep the HP up as possible while under the 750 point limit (I added an extra 10% weight). This didnt make me scream past everyone, in fact it was a bit slower on straights... BUT it did take control of the windy track very well! For anyone who races this event all I can say is use the S2000 since it has the best overall control of most cars (doesn't loose traction or spin out easily) AND take it slow/steady though corners! The first lap I passed 4 cars (out of 16), pass 2 in the second lap (out of 5), 3rd lap passed 1 and 4/5 lap is where you finally catch up with the rest of them. To me it seemed that by not powering though corners (power slides, going crazy fast and burning rubber) makes the AI run slower, like the S10 is trying to teach you to go slow and steady to get the super class license. I spent many hours pounding cars up with 700HP and couldn't pass 13th place or over power any car but as soon as I slowed down and took corners.. well smoother I was passing people fairly easily. It also helps if you have a real wheel instead of thumbs and fingers for throttle/steering.
(FYI, I bought the Ford GT test, Lotus Eclis 111/tuned(CRAP IMHO) and a few others that online forums suggested, the Ford GT is a MR car and can easily spin or slide corners which can work well if you really know exactly when to brake and turn. I was able to do this and did very well for a few laps (passing 6 in first lap) but with that risk of sliding, once you hit the dirt slightly or just overdo a corner slightly you're done for it, same thing with the Eclis or any other MR car).
Now that I have the S-class license the F2007 (Formula car) is quite something! Dont expect to use this for any of the S-class races since the min point is around 920 but it's sure fun to lap everyone in the other classes >:)
Tuesday, June 30, 2009
Thursday, June 25, 2009
Pinout?
No it's not a crazy game or anything but something very useful online for those who hack devices :)
http://www.allpinouts.org/index.php/Main_Page
The wiki gives pin connection (and sometimes schematics) of devices that could be useful for other things! Imagine, you can hack the ps2 controller to use for a remote control robot or finally figure out that connector for your wide & annoying cell phone... or if you have a o-scope and schematic drawer you can make your own pinout and help others. Sadly I don't have an o-scope :(
http://www.allpinouts.org/index.php/Main_Page
The wiki gives pin connection (and sometimes schematics) of devices that could be useful for other things! Imagine, you can hack the ps2 controller to use for a remote control robot or finally figure out that connector for your wide & annoying cell phone... or if you have a o-scope and schematic drawer you can make your own pinout and help others. Sadly I don't have an o-scope :(
Thursday, June 4, 2009
The Wedding
I was recently presented an opportunity to photograph a wedding as being the 'Pro'. Well suffice to say this really was my first time in such a situation. Being the prepared type I researched the where/when aspect and places. This proved to be very useful in that the restaurant where the wedding/reception was held in is a dark place, luminosity wise that is. Given that it was darker than what is desired I knew the flash would be utilized 100%... so pack tons of AA batteries! To my surprise I didn't do a single replacement :)
The gear that I had sufficed and 'did the job' though when compared to someone who does this as a profession it probably sucked, either way I was more than happy to help out with the photos :) On me I had a Canon and Nikon camera, 50/1.8 and 28-70/2.8 (or something close in zoom range). I used the Nikon mostly due to the nature it had a 12MP sensor and a good wide/narrow lens with wide aperture. The aperature is key for weddings from what I understand, not only does it let in more light but makes portrait like pictures work well by blurring surrounding objects (aka depth of field).
For advice I asked my brother for some help as he, in my opinion, takes MUCH better images than I do. He gave me some great pointers such as shoot in manual mode and keep the aperture as wide as possible. I did this and the feel of the picture shifts dramatically, something like that in a fantasy. Amongst other pointers he gave I feel the job went well in comparison if I just went and took pictures. Hats off to my bro for his help!
Here's some snaps from the wedding (all un-edited!)
This picture was taken by a good friend, Erica, and I'm thankful since I was the photographer :) I'm sure others got images of me in action that I'll never see but none directly show off the massive hunk of a camera I was holding. You can also get a sense on how dark the room was, notice the lights are easily visible while the background is very white (that goes to a much brighter room with skylights). And if you're wondering.. yes I was very warm in that suit!
Here's a setting of the rings and the bouquet that the bride carried. The rings were carried by young cousins of the family.
The Bride and Groom, congrats to Nick and Ann!
Those are just some sample shots. I cant really upload all 600+ images, some good and some bad. They are posted on Nick's Flickr account.
The gear that I had sufficed and 'did the job' though when compared to someone who does this as a profession it probably sucked, either way I was more than happy to help out with the photos :) On me I had a Canon and Nikon camera, 50/1.8 and 28-70/2.8 (or something close in zoom range). I used the Nikon mostly due to the nature it had a 12MP sensor and a good wide/narrow lens with wide aperture. The aperature is key for weddings from what I understand, not only does it let in more light but makes portrait like pictures work well by blurring surrounding objects (aka depth of field).
For advice I asked my brother for some help as he, in my opinion, takes MUCH better images than I do. He gave me some great pointers such as shoot in manual mode and keep the aperture as wide as possible. I did this and the feel of the picture shifts dramatically, something like that in a fantasy. Amongst other pointers he gave I feel the job went well in comparison if I just went and took pictures. Hats off to my bro for his help!
Here's some snaps from the wedding (all un-edited!)
This picture was taken by a good friend, Erica, and I'm thankful since I was the photographer :) I'm sure others got images of me in action that I'll never see but none directly show off the massive hunk of a camera I was holding. You can also get a sense on how dark the room was, notice the lights are easily visible while the background is very white (that goes to a much brighter room with skylights). And if you're wondering.. yes I was very warm in that suit!
Here's a setting of the rings and the bouquet that the bride carried. The rings were carried by young cousins of the family.
The Bride and Groom, congrats to Nick and Ann!Those are just some sample shots. I cant really upload all 600+ images, some good and some bad. They are posted on Nick's Flickr account.
Thursday, April 30, 2009
Hacking the AC
So with the 2 days of record heat that we had recently I decided to 'upgrade' our AC unit temperature sensor due to a 3rd day of record heat. After the first few days of high heat the AC worked great except it cycled on and off like crazy and could barely keep up. The problem is that the sensor is a bit sensitive and gets too cold if any of the cold air gets back into the intake faster than it should (i.e. walking by it).
The driver:
I felt confident that the 12,000 BTU/h AC could handle the large area but it never could under a full sun because of this cycling on and off. I also didn't want to spend $$$ on getting another unit that this one should be able to handle.
So what to do about this issue? Replace that sensor with a digital thermostat of course! With this upgrade not only would I be able to use the time triggered events (cooler when home, warmer when away) I would also be able to see *exactly* what the sensor temperature is reporting and adjust the position as needed.
Since the thermostat isn't made for high-current I cant simply use it inline with the compressor. Instead I took apart the face panel for the control unit and disconnected the thermal sensor. (If you follow this and do it your self be careful! you're playing around with enough voltage to hurt) The sensor that came with the AC is a thermistor which varies resistance with temperature (less with high heat, more with low). Using an multi-meeter I measured that a 4kohm resistor would work just fine (room temp was around 7kohm and resistande between fingers [~85F]). I didnt want to simply short it out and potentially damage the unit (though in theory it could work), hence the resistor.
So what to do now? Connect the resistor between 'Rh' and 'Rc', bring one terminal from the control unit to the Rh and connect the other terminal to the 'Y'. The thermostat, when on cool, uses a relay to connect Rc to Y, I ignored all ~6 of the other pins ;) (Though these are 'standard' read the manual and look for two cooling pins, one for power in and one for compressor)
I mounted the thermostat on the inlit grill of the AC, taped up a few of the vents on the thermostat that could have cool air blown into it. I turned it on and set the temp to 72 on the AC just to make sure it turns on and set the thermostat to 79. After a few hours in 93F full sun the rooms went from 85 to 79 with no cycling :) Last year it seemed to barely keep up with the demand under the same conditions and cost me $$$ in electricity usage! I also saved quite a bit of money by not thinking I need another unit.
The driver:
I felt confident that the 12,000 BTU/h AC could handle the large area but it never could under a full sun because of this cycling on and off. I also didn't want to spend $$$ on getting another unit that this one should be able to handle.
So what to do about this issue? Replace that sensor with a digital thermostat of course! With this upgrade not only would I be able to use the time triggered events (cooler when home, warmer when away) I would also be able to see *exactly* what the sensor temperature is reporting and adjust the position as needed.
Since the thermostat isn't made for high-current I cant simply use it inline with the compressor. Instead I took apart the face panel for the control unit and disconnected the thermal sensor. (If you follow this and do it your self be careful! you're playing around with enough voltage to hurt) The sensor that came with the AC is a thermistor which varies resistance with temperature (less with high heat, more with low). Using an multi-meeter I measured that a 4kohm resistor would work just fine (room temp was around 7kohm and resistande between fingers [~85F]). I didnt want to simply short it out and potentially damage the unit (though in theory it could work), hence the resistor.
So what to do now? Connect the resistor between 'Rh' and 'Rc', bring one terminal from the control unit to the Rh and connect the other terminal to the 'Y'. The thermostat, when on cool, uses a relay to connect Rc to Y, I ignored all ~6 of the other pins ;) (Though these are 'standard' read the manual and look for two cooling pins, one for power in and one for compressor)
I mounted the thermostat on the inlit grill of the AC, taped up a few of the vents on the thermostat that could have cool air blown into it. I turned it on and set the temp to 72 on the AC just to make sure it turns on and set the thermostat to 79. After a few hours in 93F full sun the rooms went from 85 to 79 with no cycling :) Last year it seemed to barely keep up with the demand under the same conditions and cost me $$$ in electricity usage! I also saved quite a bit of money by not thinking I need another unit.
Monday, April 6, 2009
Router project update
Extension on http://davidgrundmann.blogspot.com/2009/03/router-project.html
So I got the router up an running but not without flaws. Apparently there is a serious worm going around targeting openwrt project based routers. While the security risk is limited to bad passwords and open ports I decided not to take the chance so it's not going to be a gateway.
My main server is now off and sitting quietly while I have 2 routers up an running for our network. One is a wireless router that hosts the gateway (generic wifi router) and the other is the print server (WGT6534u).
The print server portion of this is a bit tricky, I'm lucky that my other printer has a network port on it (HPCL3600N)... If it didn't then I would potentially get a confusing mixture of devices if the router reboots. The mapping to /dev/lp[0-9] is dymaic and the print server (p910nd) points to each dev directly. I could make a dynamic script to scope the device ID and bind it accordingly but I didn't really need to since only 1 port is used.
The p910nd driver for the print server is interesting... typically I would use cups but the wiki for openwrt used p910nd which is a non buffering version of a server (basically it just pushes the raw data directly to the printer where cups spools it locally then prints). The bad side to this is that if the printer is off the job will be lost right away where cups could store it till the printer is back on.
Since my requirements became less by not using as a direct gateway I removed the usb key and loaded the small set of utils on ROM (ssh/p910nd/usb-drivers). Now I have an extra key :) The router now boots slightly faster than before (maybe 1-2 seconds) because it doesn't need to change the root system to the usb key and that the usb port is somewhat slow (despite being usb2)
Since my goal was to reduce power, the 2 routers (gateway + print) consume 12w combined without many compromises. This is 10x less and with $/kwH around $0.17 I will save quite a bit!
Now the real test: will they last? The reason why I used a server (PC/linux) was that I had 3 routers crash constantly or be flaky and burn up (not flames, though that would be cool)! I got tired of rebooting them every day so I built one. I guess if these routers dont work I'll buy an n270 atom chip + mobo and build my system that way :)
So what to do with the 2nd WGT634u? Hmm, maybe a security cam to take place of a $200+ one?
So I got the router up an running but not without flaws. Apparently there is a serious worm going around targeting openwrt project based routers. While the security risk is limited to bad passwords and open ports I decided not to take the chance so it's not going to be a gateway.
My main server is now off and sitting quietly while I have 2 routers up an running for our network. One is a wireless router that hosts the gateway (generic wifi router) and the other is the print server (WGT6534u).
The print server portion of this is a bit tricky, I'm lucky that my other printer has a network port on it (HPCL3600N)... If it didn't then I would potentially get a confusing mixture of devices if the router reboots. The mapping to /dev/lp[0-9] is dymaic and the print server (p910nd) points to each dev directly. I could make a dynamic script to scope the device ID and bind it accordingly but I didn't really need to since only 1 port is used.
The p910nd driver for the print server is interesting... typically I would use cups but the wiki for openwrt used p910nd which is a non buffering version of a server (basically it just pushes the raw data directly to the printer where cups spools it locally then prints). The bad side to this is that if the printer is off the job will be lost right away where cups could store it till the printer is back on.
Since my requirements became less by not using as a direct gateway I removed the usb key and loaded the small set of utils on ROM (ssh/p910nd/usb-drivers). Now I have an extra key :) The router now boots slightly faster than before (maybe 1-2 seconds) because it doesn't need to change the root system to the usb key and that the usb port is somewhat slow (despite being usb2)
Since my goal was to reduce power, the 2 routers (gateway + print) consume 12w combined without many compromises. This is 10x less and with $/kwH around $0.17 I will save quite a bit!
Now the real test: will they last? The reason why I used a server (PC/linux) was that I had 3 routers crash constantly or be flaky and burn up (not flames, though that would be cool)! I got tired of rebooting them every day so I built one. I guess if these routers dont work I'll buy an n270 atom chip + mobo and build my system that way :)
So what to do with the 2nd WGT634u? Hmm, maybe a security cam to take place of a $200+ one?
Saturday, March 21, 2009
Cell phone goodies!
So after a few weeks of having my new cell I'm going to write about it. Let me start by saying it is a MASSIVE improvement over my old phone. I got the HTC Fuze (AKA Touch Pro) and I could not be happier about it. This phone does everything I was looking for - maps, messaging, youtube,web and basically what ever I want. Of course, anyone who knows me well knows I cant leave well-enough alone so I modified this thing so much I already had to hard-reset it because of a boo-boo :)
My old phone is a HTC 3125 (Right) and my leatherman (left) and the HTC Fuze (middle). One of the things I miss is the external screen on my old phone, but that's minor over getting a touch screen!
When opened it's clear that the Fuze is much better at messaging. The vibrant screen is light controlled and the resolution is excellent (640x480)... better than almost any other phone.
The camera on this is very nice in that it's auto-focus. I believe it used the same idea as a CD reader by using electo-magnets with a lens element. The reason why I say this is when trying to focus on an object really close and it gets a lock, once I let go of the button it snaps to return to normal state. --- This is another nice feature, all the buttons are captive in that a touch activates a first level and a press is another (like a SLR camera button).
So, as stated above I did many, many upgrades to the base install. Here's a few of the things I found particular useful and stable (Not going to link since they can be updated - most of them are from http://www.freewarepocketpc.net)
I got the MS Dev packages (free!) for windows mobile and plan on giving that a try to see what I can do with the g-sensor and what not.
My old phone is a HTC 3125 (Right) and my leatherman (left) and the HTC Fuze (middle). One of the things I miss is the external screen on my old phone, but that's minor over getting a touch screen!
When opened it's clear that the Fuze is much better at messaging. The vibrant screen is light controlled and the resolution is excellent (640x480)... better than almost any other phone.
The camera on this is very nice in that it's auto-focus. I believe it used the same idea as a CD reader by using electo-magnets with a lens element. The reason why I say this is when trying to focus on an object really close and it gets a lock, once I let go of the button it snaps to return to normal state. --- This is another nice feature, all the buttons are captive in that a touch activates a first level and a press is another (like a SLR camera button).So, as stated above I did many, many upgrades to the base install. Here's a few of the things I found particular useful and stable (Not going to link since they can be updated - most of them are from http://www.freewarepocketpc.net)
- S2U2 - Slide to unlike like iphone (required due to lack of locking).
- Advanced Configuration Tool - Tweak it! Used to increase cache sizes to speed thigns up and also to improve battery life
- Diamond TF3d Config - Tweak Touchflow 3D settings (also used to remove a tab)
- Diamond Tweak - Another tweak, similar to Advanced Config tool
- Google maps - Boo ya! Also included latitude :)
- Gremote - use the phone like a mouse, in the air :) Uses accelerometer for positioning.
- HTC Album TP2 - Upgrade to album viewer in this release.
- Microsoft Live Search - Like google maps but can accept voice queries and is sometimes more accurate.
- MoDaCo Smartphone GPS Activator - enable GPS to be useful for other things
- Power Guard - see what consumes the most power (typical Idle is 80mA-100mA)
- Seismo - neat little tool that uses accelerometer. Hit the table and see!
- Total Commander - Must have for registry hacks
- WM6.1 fix for smtp mail [WindowsMobile61-KB958639] - Required to send email with this version (link to MS)
- Fuze PTT mod - Stupid PTT button was useless, remap to camera or something.
I got the MS Dev packages (free!) for windows mobile and plan on giving that a try to see what I can do with the g-sensor and what not.
Thursday, March 12, 2009
Router Project
So after getting a bit annoyed at our electric bill being the same month after month I decided to get back onto building a mini smart router. Currently I use a P4 computer (under clocked) that hosts files, is a web server, print server and a quality of service for internet amongst other things. Most off-the-shelf router don't even come close except for one particular model.. a netgear wgt634u which is no longer made (shame).
So why use an out of date router? I had it and wanted to make the best of it, besides I have 2 so if i get one working then i can use the other for those network cameras :) The best part is that the 634u is a mips processor with 8mb of flash, usb, multiple network ports and wireless all in a 5w package.
*Here's an image of a semi-modified of the 634u.
I got this at CompUSA refurbished for cheap! The reason for refurb (my guess): overheating, hence the extra heatsinks. The black one is the processor (broadcom mips 200mhz) and is on with epoxy. The others use thermal tape is is of my doing. With an IR gun the heatsink gets up to 60C quickly.. a bit more than I appreciate so an addition of a small fan should suffice.
I found a nice initial disto: http://wiki.openwrt.org/OpenWrtDocs/Hardware/Netgear/WGT634U that is proving most useful. I had to buy some components to build a serial comunication interface and get a usb adaptor.
The chip is a SP232CP. When connected I'm able to talk with the router and load linux on it via some very old connumication ideas (tftp). So far I've been able to load usb drivers for the thumb drive. I found some extra commands to swap what the root is so I can use the thumb drive instead of flash which gives me much more space to load stuff :) Once I got this down (and revisited how to modify the rd.d) I started to load openssh and cups. I plan on more but need to ensure this minimum mount of tools works before going further.
Once I'm done I will cut my server energy usage by 24x (old server uses about 120watts)
If all else fails I'll just get an Intel Atom server for $70 which is about the same power consumption :) That way I can easily compile things on my own and use gentoo which is my preferred choice of linux.
So why use an out of date router? I had it and wanted to make the best of it, besides I have 2 so if i get one working then i can use the other for those network cameras :) The best part is that the 634u is a mips processor with 8mb of flash, usb, multiple network ports and wireless all in a 5w package.
I got this at CompUSA refurbished for cheap! The reason for refurb (my guess): overheating, hence the extra heatsinks. The black one is the processor (broadcom mips 200mhz) and is on with epoxy. The others use thermal tape is is of my doing. With an IR gun the heatsink gets up to 60C quickly.. a bit more than I appreciate so an addition of a small fan should suffice.
I found a nice initial disto: http://wiki.openwrt.org/OpenWrtDocs/Hardware/Netgear/WGT634U that is proving most useful. I had to buy some components to build a serial comunication interface and get a usb adaptor.
Once I'm done I will cut my server energy usage by 24x (old server uses about 120watts)
If all else fails I'll just get an Intel Atom server for $70 which is about the same power consumption :) That way I can easily compile things on my own and use gentoo which is my preferred choice of linux.
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